SEOUL FASHION WEEK SS18: NOHKE
NOHKE Spring/Summer 2018 collection review.
Words Joie Reinstein, Media Seoul Fashion Week
Since 2010, JUNG MI SUN, the creative force behind NOHKE has established a smart balance between tailoring and elegance with a little bit of edge. This SS18 collection aptly entitled Future Fetish delivered on its name. As people were ushered into the show space, a soundtrack of 2 people conversing in German played continually over the speakers, giving us a bit of ASMR feels. Set to a dramatic soundtrack, the models came out at a determined clip, weaving in and out of architectural cubes making sure every row could see them from every angle.
The construction of the garments completely embodied this idea of Future Fetish: a minimalist and conceptual yet highly seductive interpretation of the idea of fetishism. Often in fashion we tend to cycle through one erogenous zone at a time. NOHKE through her artful cutting and draping managed to draw attention to various parts of the body in surprising ways: an exposed shoulder, a collar bone that peaks out, dresses with one sleeve leaving the other bare, corsetry accentuating small waists, bustiers celebrating the bust and slits revealing a bit of leg. It was the ultimate expression of a powerful female completely living her sensuality.
The fabrics also carried out this theme by mixing classic gabardines, cottons and knits with high shine leathers,fishnet and tulle underlays. The colors were bold and minimal at the same time: the usual suspects black and white, along with power suit greys, fuchsia, cobalt blue and neon yellow. Asymmetry and layering were key style components of this collection and gave an indication of some of the general trends this season in Seoul such as layering a short leather skirt over a longer shirt dress. Other outfits layered mesh or tulle with long sleeves under a draped dress, allowing only the cuffs or shoulder to peek through. Trousers got an interesting update with a panel that wrapped over the front and was secured with a built-in belt. Finally, one of the stars of the collection was a loose derivation of a bondage jacket that had multiple swathes of fabric tied in the back.