SEOUL FASHION WEEK FW16: DAY 3
MUTZINE has exclusive access to Seoul Fashion Week!
Check out our roundup of the best shows of Day 3 at SFW FW16 at Dongdaemun Design Plaza!
Reviews by Tira Lee & Gissella Ramirez-Valle
Media by Michael Hurt, Sujin Park, Tira Lee & Luke Tipping
For an early morning slot, the hall was surprisingly full as we stepped into where the Vlades Fall/Winter collection was to be presented. Nine Inch Nails was the pre-show soundtrack as we all settled down. As soon as the show started however, we were treated to a live performance by Okasian (@chrt_okasian.) The collection itself was heavily inspired by rock and hip-hop influences when it came to the draping and layering of the clothes. The styling was almost Rick Owens-esque, with the addition of crushed velvet and suede. Daniel Snoeks made a surprise appearance on the runway, as did AM Models duo Taemin (@taemeen) and Patrick (@patrickkkim.)
As the show drew to a close, the smash hit "It G Ma" played which hyped up the crowd, and the models stormed down the runway in sweatshirts that said “HIGH FASHION IS DEAD” which at this point, seeing how the street fashion industry is blowing up, might actually prove to be true.
YCH was a mix of splendour and edge. The brand was previously known as Arche, and the designer Yoon Choon Ho has decided to rebrand it to an eponymous label, as well as enter a new direction of his aesthetic. The styling would best described as Parisian gutter chic, with looks featuring silk drop-sleeves, bejeweled berets and skinny scarves. The line-up featured most of the top models from the first generation like Jang Yoon Ju (@yoonjujang) and Han Jin (@modelhanhyejin) as well as up and coming ones like Irene Kim (@ireneisgood) and Hyoni Kang (@hyoni_kang.) Han Jin looked ethereal in a dress with ruffles; which is a feat to pull off. Another standout look featured a leopard print fur coat, that looked like something Hypodermic Sally from American Horror Story would rock.
Even though the line-up was mixed gender, Choon Ho has made sure that the male to female ratio did not take away from his main womenswear designs. Another interesting point is that he ended the show with a bridal look, which is usually a tradition in Paris fashion shows. The soundtrack before the show was rather operatic, but once the show started it switched to something funkier which accentuated the quirky styles reflected in his collection.
HEICH ES HEICH
Mr. Heich's Fall/Winter 2016 collection was a colorful departure from last season's monochrome parade. Boys, School, Boys was a streetwear mix inspired by Gosha Rubchinskiy & Fred Perry. The Bauhaus art movement was also apparent in the colorblocks juxtaposed with neutral colors. The show had its moments although it felt quite disjointed. Standouts were the tinfoil trackjacket worn by Jun Seong (@jun_s97) and the full velveteen suit sported by Han Hyun Min (@gysaks051960).
Lest we forget to mention the always techno savvy closing by Mr. Heich. He came out riding a custom made Hoverboard and faceplanted mid runway. The crowed looked on in shock but the designer shook it off as quickly as he accelerated.
This show was the one to watch; judging from how the seats were filled nearly a good hour before the show even started. Kim Won Joong’s (@keemwj) professionalism was apparent; as he was one of the few designers who took the additional effort to provide press releases to all of the guests. A hush descended upon the audience as soon as the show started, with David Bowie playing in the background. The looks presented certainly had many interesting separates, such as flannelette tailored pieces, extravagant fur coats piled on top of shorts that are inches above the usual length. We absolutely adored the deep red velvet bomber jacket on model Byeon Woo Seok (@byeonwooseok) as well as the witty layering of a hoodie paired with a fur jacket.
This collection really cemented Kim Won’s credibility as a designer, instead of a model who’s coasting off his fame to push out casual normcore looks like his previous works. As the music swelled to a crescendo at the end, you can’t help but to feel immense pride for Kim Won and his partner, Park Ji Woon (@ultrajiwoon) as you review the trajectory of their career.