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Check out our roundup of the best shows of Day 2 at SFW FW16 at Dongdaemun Design Plaza!
Reviews by Gissella Ramirez-Valle & Tira Lee
Media by Michael Hurt, Sujin Park, Eny Rebel, Gissella Ramirez-Valle & Tira Lee
The CHARM'S Fall/Winter 2016 collection brought us a hot start to the colder season complete with strong military looks decked with red accessories reminiscent of Chinese lucky charms. Clean structures and monochrome ensembles dominated the catwalk, with models marching to the beat of war drums, performed live on a Korean traditional drum, called buk. There was a steady stream of camo tones that were utilitarian with an edge that only designer Kang Yohan could bring. Scarves were modeled after propaganda banners and with Korea’s fixation with slogans on their clothing, we foresee this being a new favorite in the street fashion scene. We saw thick coats paired with belt cinched at the waist that gave outfits a clean finish. Towards the end there was a sensual wave of red with peekaboo collarbones that took the concept to a more fashion-friendly level.
Park Sungjin (@teriyakipapi) made a notable appearance in the lineup, looking dapper in a siren red two-piece which we loved for its clean cut. There was also a look in particular that reminded us of the vertical lettering seen at Kenzo’s recent show. All in all, we found the show to be a refreshing turnaround from their previous collection. Check out our favourite looks with detailed hats and Chinese lettering, meaning “Riot”, that fit the collection’s subversive concept.
Big Park brought us a dazzling show centered around woodland creatures. The set-up featured a forested backdrop and haunting, jarring music played throughout to set the eerie mood. Think Snow White when she got lost in the forest trying to run from the hunter after her heart. There were horse appliques and prints that resembled barks of trees against a color palette of forest greens, blood reds and bright orange. The models were clad in a myriad of textures like satin finishes, flowy silks, and multi-colored furs. The most iconic look had to be the full velveteen dress with a fishtail silhouette that would be sure to make waves at cocktail parties.
An interesting thing we noted was that the show drew in a younger, edgier crowd even though the brand was usually known for being soft and feminine. Ren (@bornthisren) from idol group Nu’est made a special appearance in a silk bomber with mesh sleeves. He was the only male in the model line-up, notably known for his androgynous looks. We’re really liking the direction Big Park is heading towards and will be sure to keep a lookout for Park Youn Soo's future works!
Munsoo Kwon was a glitzy event that referenced a Korean classic: fandom culture. We were treated to a horde of fans screaming as models strutted down the runway in OPPA! slogan t-shirts and styled like they came straight out of a 90’s boyband. Instead of the usual walk-pose-walk routine, the models were given the freedom to do as they like as they approach the end of the runway; take it as a ‘fanservice’ of sorts. A notable oppa would be Joo Woo Jae (@ophen28) who seems seasoned to dishing out fanservice due to his large following. The show was constantly pumped with energy due to the peppy music (and shrieking fans in the background).
Head designer of Vetements was seen in the crowd bopping his head along to the music and smiling with amusement at some of the looks that were presented — no surprise there considering that tons of designers in Korea have been largely inspired by his brand. Some looks included mismatched socks and pops of vivid pink, like the look on Jin Park (@__jinpark) for example. Overall, we’d say the staging of the show really made the collection shine. Munsoo Kwon is always known for brilliant conceptualisation when it comes to shows, as does Ko Taeyong of Beyond Closet who also references pop culture, so it's no wonder that these two are close friends. Stay tuned for our take on Beyond Closet’s show this season.
DIM. E CRES.
Late into Day 2, Cres. E Dim. designer Hongbum Kim hosted an off-site presentation at Common Ground, a popular shopping complex. Last season, Cres. E Dim.’s quirk captivated us and we were eagerly looking forward to the label’s Fall/Winter’s showing. However this season Designer Kim chose to only show his diffusion ready-to-wear label, Dim. E Cres. at fashion week. The move is very telling of the current demand for street wear clothing in South Korea.
The presentation had models fill elevated bleachers one by one as DJ Dipcoin churned out a hiphop soundtrack. As the models settled in, street photographers including our very own collaborators Ahn Hongje (@hongje_ahn) & Han Yoosu (@aju_ys) climbed up to get their best shots. Although this collection is a direct extension of last season’s Cirque runway show down to color palette and concept, the witty and cohesive styling of the street wear made it clear as to why this brand is in high demand.