Rocket x Lunch Fall/Winter 2017 collection review.
Words Joei Reinstein, Media Seoul Fashion Week
Rocket x Lunch, designed by couple JINWON WOO and EUNHYE KIM, is continually responsible for being at the genesis of trends both in South Korea as well as Asia as a whole. Their SS17 collection brought us a deft mixture of punk, Bowie glam rock and Korean rebel insouciance that has since been replicated by every no brand label in the country. It’s resonance was definitely proven by the hordes of punk clad youth crowding around the DDP this week. Alas, Rocket x Lunch pulled it out of the bag again and surprised us all with their FW17 collection. It was an about face without a slick of punk, yet it still managed to stay true to their brand and bold spirit.
The show ominously started out with projections on two massive TV screens; a minute long montage of clips of news showing Obama, Trump and Hillary Clinton, nature shows, shopping networks, sports, commercials and footage from both East and West. It was oddly reminiscent of the 1984 Apple advertisement that made people feel their world was becoming all too oppressive… sound familiar? If one had to sum up the feeling of this collection, it could be post-rebellion which makes sense since its called Disorder. It is a reflection of an era where the youth have simply come to terms with the fact that things are quite possibly spiraling out of control and your clothing needs to suit this rapidly changing environment.
Both men's and women’s’ clothing were a mix of space age metallics, 70s tailoring and western embellishments. Functionality got a high fashion update with military details on pockets and straps and puffer coat material worked into new shapes such as pants and cropped jackets. The overall look was slouchy but elegant, strong but soft making the outfits quite possibly the best uniforms for the future. High shine crushed velvet and metallic satins and leathers, and beautiful colors such as lilac, cobalt and robin’s egg blue were mixed with more earthy camos, fatigue canvas, beige, taupe and olive green. It’s important to note the use of accessories as well. All the models, both men and women, had billowing pants tucked into high 70’s style booties, often with little colorful streamers trailing off the ankle. On closer inspection it was cut up bits of very busy, colorful fabric that seemed to echo the cacophony of images on the screens of the show (as well as the information we are bombarded with everyday). Clever Rocket x Lunch, clever.