87MM Fall/Winter 2017 collection review. 

Words Joie Reinstein, Media Seoul Fashion Week


It’s a shame that 87MM’s fashion show was overtaken by drones. Yes, you read that sentence right. Drones are part of our reality now but we still aren’t quite used to them especially when they are humming over heads and messing up our hair as they blow by at a fashion show. There were drones at other shows as well but perhaps in the more confined space of Hall 2 (vs the massive Hall 1) of the DDP, their presence was distracting at best; everyone looking up opposed to having their eyes on the collection…

The menswear collection itself, given the mysterious name of Mhermher, At Minning Laboratory (my personality) was a clear homage to Margiela. There were even faded t-shirts that had I love Margiela printed across them. The love fest was made apparent with everything from cropped trousers to drop shoulder coats. There were also a few hints of vintage British tailoring creeping in that would absolutely suit someone like Jarvis Cocker, the ultimate 70s style brit dandy. This was echoed by the show’s soundtrack which included a classic tune from the cult Trainspotting soundtrack.

The FW17 pieces were elegant but perhaps a bit toned down. They lacked some of the quirkiness that we have come to expect with 87MM. Last season each look coincided with an internet meme whereas this show walked a more classical line when it came to presentation. Nonetheless the attention to detail was there and so were the interesting mixes (yes a puffer coat can look amazeballs with a suit). The color palette was something of beauty, with gorgeous emeralds mixed with orchid purples, copper orange, warm camel and slate gray. Ankle boots were a sexy take away as well as the pop of leopard here of there, a rare site in menswear. Nothing wrong with that.