A Look Back: SEOUL FASHION WEEK SS14
In anticipation of Seoul Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016, MUTZINE will be looking back at the prominent runway trends from the past five years. For Spring/Summer 2014, cropped tops, graphic tees, and matching two-piece sets were the hottest trends. Catch up on the series by reading our previous coverage of SS11, SS12, and SS13.
Words Cathy Wang, Photos via Designers, Art Sam Cello
Some consider wearing a print from head-to-toe to be a fashion faux pas or a style sin. Despite those prescriptive and arbitrary style rules, Seoul Fashion Week had its fair share of matching two- or three-piece sets in loud and flamboyant prints. The matching set can be styled together, but they can also be separated to mix-and-match with other garments.
Kaleidoscopic and psychedelic floral prints were shown at Paul & Alice and the studio K. Both these designers opted for a three-piece suit, complete with a shirt, a jacket, and pants. Paul & Alice created an option for men with a looser fit, while the studio K provided a tighter and more fitted suit for women. Arche sent down consecutive matching sets with a striped vine print. J KOO used an abstract floral print that was borderline camouflage. Meanwhile, Steve J & Yoni P, Lucky Chouette, and the studio K all had matching tops and bottoms in a true camouflage print.
Besides the print, the composition of the two-piece was important. A popular pairing was to have a pair of wide shorts that seamlessly transitioned into a collared top. pushBUTTON and the studio K showed such looks with both long and short sleeved tops. Lucky Chouette made a fun and sporty matching sweat suit set. S=YZ brought back the metallic trend from SS12 to create a playful two piece set.
MAKE A STATEMENT
Graphic t-shirts are a key piece in a full street wear look. They add an ease and nonchalance to an otherwise composed outfit. Additionally, t-shirts are generally the most affordable pieces from a high fashion collection, making them accessible and coveted by fashion followers. T-shirts lend themselves well to a high-low fashion mix – it could be a high street t-shirt with other basics or even a cheaper t-shirt styled with couture.
T-shirts with bold text, in the style of Katharine Hamnett’s socially conscious shirts of the 80s, were found in the Lucky Chouette and Munsoo Kwon shows. Keeping true to the political history of this style of t-shirt, Lucky Chouette’s show embodied an 80’s new wave and punk spirit with an IDGAF attitude. The phrase “Project Rebel” was printed on the shirts, making a nonconformist statement. Munsoo Kwon posed the question, “Why Always Munsoo Kwon?”, on the t-shirt in the midst of a sporty and preppy collection of fitted pants and white button ups.
Other t-shirts without text were still graphic, with printed images and varied shapes. With models marching down the runway holding picket signs, Cy Choi also featured a rebellious sense but minus the text-laden shirts. In its place, the oversized, boxy cut t-shirt was exemplary of the current street style. The S=YZ show revolved around images of California’s Joshua Tree National Park printed onto dresses, jackets, and shirts. A cropped raglan tee had leather sleeves and a printed image, producing Americana nostalgia in shape and image.
Bustiers have transformed from underwear meant to be hidden away to a conspicuous garment that adds a cool factor to any outfit. Midriff baring bustiers of all shapes and forms were shown in Seoul. Some were layered over shirts, some layered under jackets, and some were worn as is.
pushBUTTON presented a more traditional bustier that was more akin to an actual corset with boning and support. Not much of the midriff was exposed thanks to high-waisted pants, but the belly button still peeked through. Surreal But Nice also had a more conservative top half of a dress. Less skin was shown, but the shape of the bustier was more traditional in that the cups are clearly defined and fitted to the torso. KAAL E.SUKTAE, Leyii, and Johnny Hates Jazz all showed bustiers that were closer to bandeau tops that wrapped tightly around the chest.
Jardin de Chouette showed a more casual and geometric version of a bustier in a fun pink color. Lucky Chouette, Jardin de Chouette’s sister brand, had a very similar bustier. They both had the same construction and seams, and were even styled in similar ways. However, with Lucky Chouette being marketed towards a younger consumer, the top was made of leather, making it just a bit edgier and contemporary. KYE constructed an even more modern bustier by eliminating visible seams and creating it in a reflective gold color.
HEMMED AND HAWED
While womenswear heavily featured cropped bralette tops, menswear also featured a shortening of tops. Instead of completely baring their midriffs, the hems of outerwear were modestly shortened to rest right above the hips. The shoulder and waist width remained wider while only the length was shortened. These cropped jackets seemed one size too small for the height of the models.
ZE:A’s Kwanghee made a surprise cameo at the Resurrection show, modeling a cropped shirt layered over a longer, thin t-shirt. beyond closet also showed a layered look, but with thicker sweatshirts. The top sweat shirt barely skimmed the belly button, revealing the sweatshirt underneath.
Leigh and Cy Choi both chowed a classic motorcycle jacket shape with inside shirts and pant waist lines peeking out from underneath. Motorcycle jackets as a style are commonly shorter than other styles of jackets, but for the past few years, the trend has been to lengthen them instead of shortening them. Though not dramatically shorter than normal, the jackets are barely skimming the hipbones. pushBUTTON took the hemming to more of an extreme by shortening a suit jacket. Even the sleeves were shortened to reveal a couple centimeters above the wrists, giving the entire jacket an overall shrunken look.