Korean designers taking over fashion weeks worldwide.
The most talked about topic in the world right now: COVID-19. The virus which has crossed borders and engulfed the world into a pandemic, halting Seoul fashion week in its tracks. But that’s not to say that Korean fashion designers haven’t pushed the boundaries to overcome one of 2020’s biggest challenges so far. For a few seasons now, Korean fashion designers have transcended the halls of Dongdaemun Design Plaza, taking over the runways internationally, in Paris, London, New York and Shanghai.
Words Eve Grech
IISE
Founded in 2015 by Korean-American, second-generation brothers, IISE creates apparel with a street interpretation of their Korean heritage, that is evolving a contemporary style of streetwear for the next decade. Though the brothers were born and raised in the United States; they now have a studio based in Seoul, manufacturing everything in Korea. The brand uses Korean fabrics and techniques with a mixed modern and traditional aesthetic. The brand began producing runway shows after being awarded the Samsung Fashion Design fund in 2018.
NEW YORK
FASHION WEEK
SS20 takes inspiration from Korean Chaebols (conglomerate companies in Korea) and their impact on Korean society, culture, and economics, by re-interpreting the uniforms of each company. The uniforms offer both streetwear and contemporary elements, with prints using CCTV footage and symbolic pharmaceutical information as accessories and detail. They are renovating traditional suiting into a more streetwear vibe.
For FW20 IISE takes inspiration from traditional Korean architecture and furniture design, influencing the core design aesthetic of symmetry, balance and proportion. The collection showcases the use of paneling and symmetrical lines, with a mixture of fabrics in minimal colours of black, navy, sky blue and washed greys and beige, with an experimental use of acid wash.
LONDON FASHION WEEK
Munn
Founded in 2014 by Han Hyun-Min, Munn launched with the aim of minimalism and emotional honesty through his blending of formalwear and workwear in a bold contrasting colour palette. Munn takes inspiration from 60’s style construction of clothing and reinforces new silhouettes in a range of materials, unfamiliar details and patterns.
Munn’s SS20 collection plays with their ever-evolving definitions of masculinity through a modern, street wear twist within their staple tailoring. Blazers, jackets and sleeves were elegantly feminized through ruffles and sheer detailing. The brand plays with a mixture of fabrics, in shimmery and lace textures which elevate their cropped blazers paired with hot pants. Sporty puffers with floral detail and bomber jackets with multiple pockets add a streetwear vibe to the collection. Bejeweled headdresses, chokers and asymmetric earrings are the finishing touches.
Taking tailoring to new heights, the FW20 collection explores modern-day minimalism and reinterpreted school uniforms. The 60’s oversized power suits took over. Floral printed blanket coats and pinstriped blazers were paired with high neck tops, all in a monotone based colour palette, which featured pops of deep, vivid colours to add contrast and detail. Accessories such as well adjusted ties, bags, and berets completed each outfit.
The SS20 collection showcases street style that blends a playful mixture of pastel mint green, sky blue, butter yellow and natural colours and bold patterns. Accessible for everyday fashion lovers, the collection features easy to wear slip dresses, sleek tailored blazers, oversized draped t-shirts and cinched waisted coats, paired with cowboy and bucket hats.
PushBUTTON
Since launching in 2010, Park Seong-geon’s pushBUTTON has become a longtime favorite of many Korean actresses and girl-group members. The label explores playful and youthful silhouettes with a vibrant colour palette and experimental materials.
SS20 showcases a city street style featuring sportswear staples like tight-fitting cycling shorts, t-shirts and bodysuits, but also highlights the art of tailoring and the label’s signature oversize shoulders and streamline suits. The collection offers an array of colours from soft neutrals and bold neon green, in a combination of fabrics.
PARIS FASHION WEEK
Kimhekim
Taking elements from Parisienne style, the renaissance of the Golden kingdom where the surname Kimhekim originated from and the enrichment of decorative art, Kimhekim was established in 2014. Combining past and future the brand offers unique high-end garments that are chic and playful yet still delicate and romantic. Though the brand has yet to show as SFW, the label won the 15th Samsung Fashion Design Fund in 2019 and was complemented by Samsung's Fashion Group’s chief editor, for having a strong identity and huge commercial potential.
The SS20 show took a tongue in cheek approach to attention-seeking by sending models down the runway donning selfie sticks and IV drips. Grabbing more attention, he showcased his draped, oversized tailoring and over the top, extra-large organza bows, that added a femme element. Alongside there was some more sleek put together silhouettes that feature elegant details of pearl fastenings, reaching back to chic, Parisienne style.
The FW20 collection draws inspiration from emotional experiences and lonely lovers in a dead city. Featuring his much-loved use of organza, Kimhekim adds heart patches and pearl buttons to his renewed Parisienne style and tailoring that emits the elegance in minimalism. The colour pallete used also has a minimal approach of black, white, beige and browns with the gentle pop of soft pink and pale green.
WOOYOUNGMI
The namesake brand Wooyoungmi founded in 2002 in Paris, strives to create beautiful and sophisticated collections blending vintage with modern tailoring. The brand has become known for balancing the soft and hard menswear aesthetic.
Yet to show at Seoul fashion week, we show Wooyoungmi as a special feature, being named as one of the designers who are shaping the global fashion industry by the Business of Fashion in 2014 and the most successful independent Korean menswear designer by The Korean Herald.
SS20 explores the 70’s and 80’s City pop American lifestyle movement with the use of Hawaiian palm-tree and other 70’s resembling prints in burnt orange and bold but classic red, blue, green and yellow colours, layered into iconic black tailoring pieces. The collection emits a contemporary take on a beach city resort aesthetic.
FW20 takes a gender-fluid approach, finding a middle point between masculinity and femininity. The collection offers a Parisian style, that stands out; featuring boxy blazers and overcoat, puffers and pooling oversized trousers in vivid orange and blues, and more subtle but still desirable colour pallets of monochrome and neutrals.
Hye Young Shin aimed to capture ‘soft charisma’ through her brand Wnderkammer which she launched in 2011. Taking inspiration from the artistic world, the brand is exploring the balance between art, wearability, and accessibility. Sourcing eco-friendly fabrics for her garments she also works on emphasizing comfort and structure. Wndermmer is taking an unpretentious sophisticated approach to simple stylish women's wear.
The SS20 collection named Imperfectly Perfect, is centered around imperfect beauty in procreation and unfinished things. Taking inspiration from the colours of dawn before sunrise, the collection shows a beautiful colour palette of warm naturals and pops of sky blue and sage green. Textured, sheer, lightweight knit is heavily used in form fitting bodysuits, long sleeve tops, and dresses, alongside long pleated skirts, inspired by the rough surfaces of unfinished buildings. Details of puff sleeves, large straight collars, and holes along the sides of the waist add the finishing touches to this pretty collection.
SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK
Beyond Closet
Creating a space to look through one’s personality, sensitivity and lifestyle, Beyond Closet by Ko Taeyong is a menswear brand offering street style ready pieces since 2008. The brand has become a commercial success in Korea due to embracing unisex street style ready to wear pieces.
The SS20 collection explores the contrasts of tenderness, romance, and violence in strong menswear that still feels delicate through elements of heavy leather jacket, hard canvas chino pants, and wool long coats, against soft silk shirts and tight jersey tops. The accessories take inspiration from army and navy vibes. The colour pallet is heavy with khaki green, but also features navy blue, beige and browns and pops of red.